Vilmart Brut Champagne Grand Cellier 1er Cru NV

95 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(2014 base vintage; disgorged December 2016; 70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir; 2013 and 2012 reserves; fermented and aged 10 months in large oak foudres; no malolactic fermentation; 8g/L dosage). Laurent Champs describes Grand Cellier as ‘audacious and elegant’, expressive of the fresh citrus notes and saltiness of Rilly chardonnay. It rises magnificently to the expectation, confidently chardonnay-led in its stunning brightness of white citrus and depth of ripe white peach. Champs is a master of marrying pristine fruit, enduring malic acid drive, soothing oak texture and the salty chalk minerality of Rilly-la-Montagne, and this release is a shining exemplar of his skill. A delightfully even and gracious finish lingers long and true, laced with nuances of vanilla and spice. (2020-2021)"

94 points Wine Spectator: "[$89 list] A sculpted Champagne, rich but still elegant, with well-honed acidity and a panoply of flavors set on the raw silklike mousse. Delivers grilled macadamia nut and biscuit, white cherry and nectarine fruit, crystallized honey, lime blossom, star anise and smoke accents. Long, salty finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now through 2033. (11/30/23)"

93-94 points Essi Avellan, MW: "(70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir) Based on the harvest of 2019, this wine is complemented by reserves from 2018 and 2017. The elegantly toast-lined nose is full of promise, with radiant fruit complemented by spicy liquorice tones. Having been disgorged back in December 2021, this wine shows refined post-disgorgement evolution. The Chardonnay drives the lemony palate of stunning acidity. The lacy-textured and smoothly bubbling palate has plenty of drive and zestiness. (Oct 2020)"

93 points Tom Hewson (Decanter): "Beautifully refined and delicate with clementine and pale strawberry enlivened by a touch of flintiness and creaminess and delivered with a delicate mousse. The Chardonnay lifts and elongates with fine zesty energy. Detailed, poised and classy, this is superb value. 10 months predominantly in large oak foudres. Drinking Window: 2023-2028. (4/28/23)"

92 points Wine & Spirits: "This is a 70-30 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grown in clay-limestone soils. The components come from harvests in 2014 through ’16, the wines aged 10 months in foudre. It’s spicy in its structure and lasting in its fruit, with flavors ranging from the red blush of pear skin to orange and dry pineapple. Powerful, generous and still tight, this should develop well over the next several years. (Dec 2021)"

92 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): "The current release of Laurent Champs’ Grand Cellier non-vintage Brut bottling is from the base year of 2018, with reserve wines included from the previous two vintages. The cépages is seventy percent chardonnay and thirty percent pinot noir. The vins clairs do not undergo malo and were aged in large foudres for ten months prior to bottling up for secondary fermentation. It was given two and a half years aging sur latte and finished with a dosage of eight grams per liter after its disgorgement in February of 2022. The wine offers up a very refined aromatic constellation of apple, pear, white lilies, bread dough, chalky minerality and the first vestiges of an eventual smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, crisp and full-bodied, with fine depth at the core, excellent mineral drive, refined mousse and a long, complex and very well-balanced finish. This is already very tasty, but still pretty brisk, and a bit of bottle age will let the acids relax a bit more and the wine to really blossom. A very serious non-vintage Brut. 2022-2050. (Jul/Aug 2022)"