Verónica Ortega Bierzo Kinki 2019

93 points Luis Gutiérrez (Wine Advocate): "[$40 list] The 2019 Kinki is different from the 2018, as the red grapes were riper and had more aromatic influence, a little wilder and with a saline twist. But there's better acidity here. It was bottled one week before I tasted it, and the wine was showing well. It's a lot more serious than the initial 2018, which might have have been a little radical. This feels more complex and has depth, clout and nuance. Surprisingly enough, there is more freshness, too, and a more defined palate with more precision. I still see the similitude here, but in a more serious way, with acid berries and an electric palate. This comes from a field blend of Mencía with perhaps 25% of mainly Palomino, Godello and Valenciana in a very old vineyard in the village of Cobrana, where she also produces her red Cobrana. The soils are rich in slate, and the vineyards are at high altitude, around 750 meters above sea level. It fermented with 100% full clusters in an open-top 5,000-liter oak vat with all the grapes together and a long maceration. It matured in used barrique and 800-liter clay amphora for eight months. The curiosity here is that the élevage in amphora happened under a veil of yeast, like the flor from Jerez (most probably more like the Jura) that further sharpened the wine. 3,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2020. Drink: 2020-2024. (Jun 2020)"