Selosse Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Substance NV

99 points Kristaps Karklins (Wine Advocate): "One of the pinnacles of the tasting with Selosse, unsurprisingly, is the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance, a wine with the most complex making, going through four stages of maturation: from barrels to the bottle. As always, it derives from a solera created in 1986. Originally, the wine was sourced from two parcels in Avize, but today the base wine (which eventually contributes only about 4.8% to the final blend in the bottle) is produced from a selection of plots in the village. Guillaume opted to include parcels that best fit the desired balance—sometimes these will be south-facing, other times east or even north-facing sites. Muscular and multidimensional, it jumps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of orange zest, spices, beeswax, toasted hazelnuts and dried fig. On the palate, it is full-bodied, vinous and textural yet searingly chalky—even more mineral than Les Chantereines. Guillaume Selosse remarks that oxidation during maturation (and through multiple transfers between different vessels) frees the wine from fruit in a classic sense, leaving mostly chalky extract and enhancing its mineral aspect. Every time I taste at this great domaine, I vacillate between Substance and the lieux-dits as to which wine best defines this benchmark producer. The latest release was disgorged in July 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage and promises a concentrated, unforgettable drinking experience. Drink: 2024-2034. (12/19/24)"

98 points La Revue du Vin de France: "More demonstrative, Substance (disgorged on July 27, 2020) pushes further the oxidative character and the opulence of the solera, which began in 1986 until 2012. A very beautiful champagne with Andalusian bitterness and immense richness in retro-olfaction for a winter table. Why not with a beautiful feathered game? Wines at the top. (2023)"

98 points Bettane & Desseauve Guide (2025).

97 points Yohan Castaing (Decanter): "This grand cru blanc de blancs produced with grapes from Avize is the result of a solera started in 1986. Only 11 barrels are produced each year (totally around 1,700 bottles). Remarkable aromatic intensity for a nose of white flowers, honey, and white pepper, but what impresses most is its precision along with cool menthol overtones. On the palate, there is the telltale chalky tension of Selosse Champagnes as well as a crystalline sharpness of outline. A superb, classy Champagne sure to set off an outburst of bravos. Drink: 2021-2030. (12/7/21)"

96 points Antonio Galloni (Vinous): "The NV (2015) Extra-Brut Substance is positively stellar. In recent releases, Substance has often shown a bit more freshness and verve than in the past. That very much comes through here. Citrus, floral, white pepper and mineral notes abound. Ideally, readers will be able to cellar this, as Substance needs a few years post disgorgement (at a minimum) to be at its very best and most expressive. This is beautifully done. Dosage is 1.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 20, 2023. Drink: 2026-2035. (Mar 2024)"

96 points Audrey Frick (JebDunnuck.com): "The NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs Substance is the only wine in the range from Selosse that is produced in a true solera system, with criadera, and this release has the addition of the 2016 vintage going into the cuvée. The nose offers fantastic layered depth framed by a minty freshness lifting from the glass, along with notes of fresh apricot, marzipan, citrus oils, and wet stones. The palate is textural with a core of rich sapidity and buoyant acidity that creates a weightless and impeccably balanced feel throughout. The mousse is fine, but the wine’s savory texture takes the lead. It’s going to drink well now or over the coming 20 years. Disgorged in February 2024. Drink: 2024-2045 (12/20/24)"

96 points Wine Spectator: " (2024)"

95 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): "The new release of Cuvée Substance from Guillaume Selosse is simply stunning. As readers may recall, the Cuvée Substance is the Selosse family’s solera bottling, with three thousand bottles produced each year, and then the new vins clairs added back to the solera for the next year. I should mention that the “new” vins clairs added into the perpetual solera have already been aged for one year in foudre prior to their addition to the blended tank. The wine is a pure Avize chardonnay, with the wine having spent six years aging sur lattes prior to disgorgement. It offers up a superb, beautifully mature bouquet of baked apples and pears, macadamia nut, warm bread, chalky minerality, dried flowers, just a whisper of oak and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, elegant and full-bodied, with superb complexity, a lovely core, fine soil undertow and grip, refined mousse and a long, poised and seamlessly balanced finish. I love the aged character of this wine’s aromatic and flavor spectrums, while still retaining a lovely spine of acidity, vibrant mousse and the bones of a younger wine! 2023-2050. (Nov/Dec 2023)"