Rodez/Eric Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée des Grands Vintages NV

96 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(2009 base vintage; 30% chardonnay, 70% pinot; 100% Ambonnay from at least 12 vineyards; average vine age 41 years; 26% 2009, 28% 2008, 14% 2006, 11% 2005, 10% 2004, 11% 2002; no malolactic fermentation; 100% vinified in barrels; 3g/L dosage). An assemblage of the fruits of the first pressings of the best parcels across many years, this is a cuvée built on a mind-blowing roll-call of vintages, not only in that its youngest season is already nine years of age on release, but that it plunders many of the great harvests of two decades, in proportions that must be unparalleled in Champagne, except perhaps in Krug itself, at three times the price. Throbbing with a full straw hue, this is a wonderfully exotic release that basks in succulent peach juice, layered with honey and butter cake, heaped with dried fruits and mixed spice. Its deep, layered complexity matches the recipe, countering the grand intensity of Ambonnay pinot noir with the finesse of chardonnay and the tension of malic acidity, bringing definition and poise to its generous exuberance, thanks to balanced acidity and fine chalk minerality that proclaims distinguished terroirs tapped by great old vines. It all culminates in a grand crescendo of pristine line and length. The harmony on show in this melody is a masterpiece of Rodez’s talent as a composer. (2020-2021)"