Keller Riesling Niersteiner Hipping GG 2017

98+ points Mosel Fine Wines: "AP: 40 18. This 2017er Niersteiner Hipping GG delivers a beautiful nose where reductive elements including minty herbs, smoke, bacon and needle provide the frame for some glorious scents of grapefruit, tangerine, candied lime, fresh almond and coconut. The wine has the purity and lightness of mountain water yet its complexity and density on the mid-palate are just stunning. One can feel the intensity from the high levels of dry extracts but these are magnificently wrapped into spicy and salty elements. The length and impact in the finish are stunning. The after-taste seems to last for minutes. The wine is almost painfully dry at this stage, but the sheer freshness, intensity and complexity are simply breathtaking. This grandiose expression of dry Riesling may well turn into wine perfection in a decade: It is THAT impressive! 2027-2047. (Oct 2018)"

98 points Stuart Pigott (JamesSuckling.com): "Extremely deep, but as straight as a laser beam, this is brimming with grapefruit, herb and smoke character. The enormous, mineral freshness on the super-concentrated palate drives the finish out in the direction of infinity. Better from 2019. (9/19/18)"

96 points David Schildknecht (Vinous): "Given the superb performance of this year’s (largely Hipping) village-level Niersteiner, Keller served me this Hipping immediately thereafter, thus emphasizing why he chose not to include fruit from the uppermost or lowest part of the slope in his Grosses Gewächs. The animating brightness and tang conveyed here by fresh lemon, tangerine and pineapple near the core – anticipated on the wine’s effusive nose – translate into consummate refreshment and mouth-shaking vibrancy. There is a remarkable sense throughout this performance of transparency to myriad aromatic as well as tactile nuances. Iris and gentian perfume, smoke, stone, green tea and sea salt all combine for a superb show and linger with haunting, mouthwatering persistence. The texture is silken and there is a sense of lift that belies the 13% alcohol indicated on the wine’s label. Impressive though this already is, I feel confident that it will prove even better with time in bottle. Drink: 2019-2036. (Jul 2019)"

94.7 points CellarTracker.com community score.

94+ points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): "The 2017 Hipping GG is absolutely stunning and at such a high quality level that I wondered if there was going to be much room for even better wines further along in the lineup! The beautiful bouquet jumps from the glass in another very elegant constellation of sweet grapefruit, blood orange, a gorgeous base of slate, dried flowers, wild yeasts and a gentle topnote of petrol. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and filigreed, with a lovely core of fruit, ripe, juicy acids and excellent length and grip on the vibrant and very well-balanced finish. Great juice! 2025-2075. (May/Jun 2018)"

19/20 points Julia Harding, MW (JancisRobinson.com): "To be bottled August 2018. 37-year-old vines, 2.5 t/ha. Both intense and pretty on the nose. Deep citrus and also some peppery white blossom. Mineral spice and herbs too. Then rich in orange pith on the palate, deep and somehow more gentle than the Kirchspiel even though it has real intensity. The acidity is crisp but less defining, much more mouth-filling. Such a contrast with the Kirchspiel. Totally captivating and a wine to lose yourself in, a wine of rich generosity, almost exotic fruit, without any loss of purity and freshness. Endlessly long and already complex but without that saltiness of the Kirchspiel. The freshness is still remarkable on the finish. Drinking Window: 2022-2035. (2/17/18)"