Heidsieck/Charles Brut Champagne Cuvée Charlie (Cellared in 2017) NV

96-98 points Essi Avellan, MW: "(52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir). Based on the 2016 vintage, this wine builds on a magnificent wealth of reserve wines. It already has a high expression on release: a super-complex nose, in which vanilla, burned sugar, caramel and liquorice meet tangerine, pineapple, dried apricots and honey. The sumptuously sweet character continues on the soothingly mellow palate, oozing reserve-wine richness. Here, the 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir (going back to 1998) blend harmoniously into something luxuriously textured. Perfectly balanced with its dosage. No need to wait, even if the new Charlie has the structure to age too. Dosage 7g/l. (Aug 2022)"

97 points Yohan Castaing (Decanter): "An astonishing bouquet presenting notes of petroleum and flint that mingle with scents of pastry and both dried apricot and apricot jam. Complexity and generosity stand out on the palate, with that exemplary creamy and mellow mouthfeel that aged Champagnes at their best can have, but there is also freshness and an underlying crystalline sensation serving as counterpoint to the fullness of texture that is enhanced by the dosage. The chalk-infused finish is long and subtle, leaving a lingering impression of spices, including vanilla and pepper, as well as dried fruits. Bottled and cellared in 2017. Disgorged: November 2021. Dosage: 7g/L. 80% reserve wines and 20% wines from the 2016 harvest. 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir from Aÿ. Drinking Window: 2022-2030. (Jul 2022)"

97 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(52% chardonnay, 48% pinot noir; 28% 2016 base, 72% reserves of predominantly chardonnay, back to 1998, including 35% of reserves of more than 15 years of age, aged on lees for up to 25 years; 8g/L dosage; 2000 bottles). It was a monumental undertaking for Cyril Brun to set about recreating the spirit of his late friend Daniel Thibault (‘god on earth’), and his inaugural release is grand testimony to his success. It takes the highest skill of a master blender to unite the dramatic and diverse universes of vintages spanning three decades with such seamlessness as this. Seven months pre-release, it is at once coiled and introverted and at the same time exuberant and extroverted, embracing the full expanse of the firmament of deep complexity that is Charles, brimming with the opulent spice of deep reserves, succulent stone fruits and silky refinement. Effortless harmony suspends everything in intricate balance between the zest of citrus and the succulence of peach, the cut of acidity and the texture of gentle chalk minerality and just the right edge of understated bite. This is no showstopper but rather ethereally silky, seductively graceful, alluringly polished, eloquently understated and hauntingly persistent – the very essence of Charles, and grand testament to Cyril’s mastery as a blender. Daniel Thibault would be proud indeed. (7/11/22)"

96 points William Kelley (Wine Advocate): "When Cyril Brun was briefed to recreate this iconic cuvée, he struggled to achieve the plenitude and drama he was looking for. Then, he dug in the Heidsieck archives and discovered, as he tells it, that the famous vintages of Charlie, while vintaged on paper, actually contained reserve wines. Brun therefore gave himself carte blanche to draw on the house's best lots to put together the inaugural NV Champagne Charlie, based on the 2016 vintage but incorporating fully 78% reserve wines dating back two decades. Bursting with aromas of golden orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb, peaches, spices and buttery pastry, it's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a layered core of fruit, racy acids and a beautifully refined pinpoint mousse. Some 52% of the blend is Chardonnay, with Brun looking for ripe, exotic Chardonnay to complement more tensile lots of Pinot Noir. It's a compelling, flamboyant wine—the only thing that may make consumers smart is the price. Drink: 2023-2040. (2022)"

96 points Tom Hewson (TimAtkin.com): "52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir. The return of Charles Heidsieck's true Prestige Cuvée is remarkable not only for the quality of the wine (and perhaps the price), but for the admirable choice of not simply going 'big' in terms of style. The youngest wine is from 2016 (20% Aÿ Pinot Noir), the rest composed of reserves back to 1998. What is striking is the harmony, purity and resolution of flavour here, with fragrant tropical fruits, brightness of starfruit and orange peel and fine apricot tart flavours, all sitting under gentle praline richness. Nothing steps out of line - a real sense of assemblage. Luxurious enough on the palate to enjoy now, but subtly-built for further ageing in bottle, this will be a fascinating cuvée to follow. (Dec 2022)"

96 points La Revue du Vin de France: "We are delighted to see the cuvée Charlie again with another philosophy: this wine, mis en cave in 2017, made from old wines and refreshed with 20% of wine from 2016, asserts itself with power and personality. We can only rejoice in this reunion. (2023)"

96 points Anne Krebiehl, MW (Falstaff): "Fresh, ripe apricot and salted shortbread are immediate on the nose. More air reveals a mouthwatering streak of ripe and juicy greengage, grapefruit zestiness and melted butter. The palate is wonderfully brisk, taut at first but endowed with cooling, depth with hints of chalk and more apricot, accentuated by fine mousse. This is complex, taut, fine and beautifully vertical. It will age beautifully. (1/1/22)"