Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Lauren Estate 2021

98-100 points Lisa Perrotti-Brown (The Wine Independent): "The 2021 Chardonnay Lauren Estate, tasted as a tank sample due to be bottled in December 2022, was made with 100% new oak - though it doesn't show. It prances out with showy scents of ginger tea, lemon meringue pie, grapefruit oil, and sassafras with touches of allspice and sea spray plus a hint of jasmine. Full-bodied, rich, opulent, and spicy / savory, it has an amazingly satiny texture with electric tension and incredible length. So thick and yet so ethereal, this is a jaw-dropper. It comes from a complex vineyard planted to four different clones: two old Wente clones, Mt Eden, and Corton Charlemagne. Drink: 2023-2039. (9/21/22)"

98-100 points Joe Czerwinski (Wine Advocate): "Unlike many of Aubert's wines, the 2021 Chardonnay Lauren Estate incorporates four different selections (Hyde Old Wente, Montrachet, Mount Eden and Hudson). From vines planted in 1999 and 2000 on the site of a former orchard, and matured in 80% new French oak, it exudes power yet remains balanced. Hints of pencil shavings mark the nose, joined by effusive notes of lime and white peach, while the palate is full-bodied, rich and slightly oily in feel. Despite a sense of massive density, it remains fresh and lively, with great length and energy on the finish. It's the crowning achievement among a stellar collection of 2021s from Aubert. Drink: 2023-2035. (12/30/22)"

98 points James Suckling: "Salty, lemon rind, lemon curd, stone, and blackboard chalk. Full-bodied. Tight, layered and really fine. Extremely long and compressed. Wonderful sophistication. Drink or hold. (12/11/22)"

96-98 points Antonio Galloni (Vinous): "The 2021 Chardonnay Lauren is a rich, phenolic wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the Lauren is packed with fruit and structure. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, sage and dried pear build into the rich, palate-staining finish. The Lauren has a textural intensity that makes it feel almost like a red wine. Historically, the Lauren has been one of the best agers here. Drink: 2025-2036. (Jan 2023)"

Producer notes: "The 2021 Lauren is the highest expression of what is possible with heritage clones, site specificity, and vine age. The wine is beguiling in its complexity, unfurling in a wave of seductive aromas and textures. Concentrated lime and apricot oils bound from the glass alongside ripe heirloom apple and a complex mix of jasmine and lily florals. Lemongrass and cling peach continue to build across the palate to a harmonious crescendo. The wine is both rich and finessed, with palpable energy that radiates through its tightly woven structure. The wine will remain youthful and exuberant for many years to come and will age with finesse and stature well beyond 10 years."