Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Champagne Le Jardin d'Ulysse (2017, 72mo NV

98 points Kristaps Karklins (Wine Advocate): "Readers may have wondered about the delay in releasing Le Jardin d'Ulysse, but the long wait since the 2016-base release has been worth it. Ulysse Collin's new NV Le Jardin d'Ulysse (2017 base) was disgorged in February 2024 after 72 months on the lees, adding an extra year of aging compared to previous renditions, resulting in a more complete wine. Based on the 2017 vintage, it’s a rather unique version of this cuvée, as it’s produced almost entirely from Chardonnay (almost, because there are small percentages of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the 10% reserve wines from 2016). The decision came from issues with rot and damage affecting both Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir in 2017, so Collin decided to harvest only Chardonnay to preserve the quality. The result is indeed impressive, as the wine opens in the glass with a deep bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, beeswax and pine resin. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and chiseled, structured around chalky extract and electric acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish. Olivier Collin has delivered a brilliant third rendition of Le Jardin d'Ulysse, the most seamless and coherent in relation to the rest of the range. As always, it derives from a mostly north-facing site (with 30% facing south) next to the winery in Congy, and it is the last plot they harvest. Drink: 2026-2037. (4/3/25)"

95 points Anne Krebiehl, MW (The World of Fine Wine): "(100% Chardonnay; 100% 2017; 72 months on lees; disgorged February 2024; dosage 1.5g/l). Freshly cut, tart apple flesh with green apple peel appears on the nose, along with white pepper, buttery sponge cake, and slight smoke. This is the first wine where the mousse is insistent, where its energy fills the mouth, trailing a touch of white pepper. It comes with a different energy from the other wines, with wonderful cut and exquisite brightness. (7/7/25)"