Ulysse Collin Extra Brut BdB Champagne Roises (2017, 72mos) NV

99 points Kristaps Karklins (Wine Advocate): "Derived from old massal selection Chardonnay planted in 1949, Les Roises is, as always, the richest and most demonstrative of Ulysse Collin’s Blanc de Blancs. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of 2.4 grams per liter after 72 months on the lees, the NV Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2017 base) 72 months is based on the 2017 vintage and incorporates 15% reserve wines. Defined by its south-facing exposition and low yields, affected by le court-noué (the grapevine fanleaf virus), it offers a somewhat more powerful, concentrated version of Les Enfers, as the smaller berries require more pressing, extracting slightly more tannins and color. A superb effort that transcends the limitations of the base vintage, it wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of dried white flowers, sesame, fresh bread and passion fruit. Full-bodied, deep and layered, with impressive mid-palate amplitude, it concludes with a precise, searingly saline finish. While Les Roises and Les Enfers are more alike than different—something that is especially true with these releases—when deciding which bottle to open first, I believe this tasting note provides the answer. Drink: 2025-2036. (4/3/25)"