Lafarge Volnay 1er cru Clos du Château des Ducs 2020

97 points Charles Curtis, MW (Decanter): "Surpassingly elegant mulberry and black cherry fruit, with notes of spice, smoke and a saline mineral firmness. Lovely concentration and plenty of tannic grip, yet it is very subtle at the end. This half-hectare clos is a monopole of the domaine, located right in the village of Volnay. Certified biodynamic, it is a wine that consistently unites elegance and power. Frédéric Lafarge destems the fruit and ferments on native yeasts before ageing in older casks (only 15% new). Drinking Window: 2025-2060. (11/10/21)"

96 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): "The 2020 Clos du Château des Ducs is every bit as brilliant as the Clos des Chênes chez Lafarge. The wine offers up a supremely elegant aromatic constellation of red plums, cherries, raw cocoa, a hint of hazelnut, spit-roasted pigeon, a complex base of soil tones, vanillin oak and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, precise, deep and full, with great transparency and grip, a beautiful core of sappy fruit, ripe, fine-grained tannins and flawless balance on the very long, focused and nascently complex finish. Stunning juice. 2040-2100. (Nov/Dec 2021)"

96 points Christy Canterbury, MW (TimAtkin.com): "It has been almost 250 years since the last vestiges of the 14th century château for which this Premier Cru is named disappeared. Considering the quality of this wine made only by the Lafarge family, perhaps it is less of a loss. Velvety and caressing on the palate, this juicy, full-bodied wine tastes of bramble and black cherry peels. The drizzle-soft tannins and buoyant acidity delicately shape the wine. 2025-40. (2022)"

94-96 points William Kelley (Wine Advocate): "The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs is liable to overshadow even the emblematic Clos des Chênes this year. Offering up a profound bouquet of blackberries, sweet spices, rose petals, orange rind, summer truffles and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and immensely concentrated, with lively acids, abundant but almost imperceptible tannins and a long, saline finish. (1/20/22)"

94-96 points Jasper Morris, MW (Inside Burgundy): "Fine mid purple, with a super-sensual nose. A really fine strong fruit attack at the front, offering a firmer structure than the Clos des Chênes and a slight nuttiness behind. The tannins are more present, but what a wealth of fruit is there to cover them. Very long indeed, another magical Lafarge wine. (Oct 2021)"

94-96 points Neal Martin (Vinous): "The 2020 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru has been de-stemmed by hand since 2016. It has another very mineral-driven bouquet that unfolds marvellously, black cherry and bilberry, crushed rock and sea spray aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a lovely symmetry here, well judged acidity, poised and very persistent on the energetic finish. Sophisticated (as usual). Drink: 2026-2050. (Dec 2021)"

94-96 points/'Don't miss!/Outstanding,' Allen Meadows (Burghound): "(from 50+ year old vines; a monopole of the domaine; destemmed manually). This also displays a touch of bourgeon de cassis though it's sufficiently subtle that I doubt it will last. More interesting are the very punchy and beautifully delineated medium-bodied flavors that brim with focused power and minerality on the chalky, moderately austere and hugely long finish. This is jaw droppingly good; indeed it's a veritable 'wow' wine. Drink: 2032+. (Apr 2022)"