Heidsieck/Charles Brut Champagne Blanc des Millénaires Crayères 1996

100 points James Suckling: "A perfect, aged blanc de blancs with superb aromas of chalk, pie crust, limes and green apples with buttered popcorn, jasmine and hints of green tobacco. Medium-bodied, this has a compacted palate of dense dried fruit, turning to caramel and pie crust with an energized, vivid finish. Goes on for a minute. Aged almost 25 years on the lees. Released July 24, 2024. Drink now. Only 4,000 bottles made. (7/15/25)"

99 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(Five grand crus and one premier cru of the Côte des Blancs in similar quantities; Oger for its finesse and smoothness, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger for its structure, Avize for its minerality, Cramant for its complexity, and Vertus for its vibrancy and floral notes; disgorged November and December 2021; technological cork). At a mesmerising 28 years of age, this might go down as the latest first (official) release of a champagne vintage. There is still a brightness of radiant straw to its medium yellow hue, astonishingly luminous for such grand old age. The palate presents a captivating journey that encapsulates its slow passage through almost three decades. This is a cuvée to experience in the absence of any distractions, because you do not want to miss any moment of its thrilling dips and swoops as it reveals its multifaceted dimensions for thirty seconds after you swallow. Some wines reveal their grandeur in undeviating linearity, but here the ride is all about thrilling acceleration and breathtaking turns and swoops! The energy of the greatest crus of the Cote des Blancs sustains purity astonishingly vibrant at this age, still reminiscent of grapefruit, lemon, apple and fig, while the voluptuous personality of Charles is declared in the most enticing glacé pear, crème brûlée and freshly churned butter. Then subtle, grand depth of tertiary arises in white truffle, butter croissant, pipe smoke, candle wax and layers of glorious spice. The finish delivers tremendous concentration true to the fabled 1996 season, presented with persistence and drive. Glittering chalk minerality is energised by enduring acidity, but more than anything it is the glossy, creamy, waxy texture of Charles heightened in grand old age by almost a quarter century on lees that defines its unique magnificence. The house has been exceedingly disciplined in holding off 28 years for its release, finally unleashing it in a mesmerising moment in its grand arc of evolution, which it shows every promise of confidently holding for at least a few more years, without demanding any further age. (2024)"