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92 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(tasted in 2021 in France; 50% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, 20% meunier; Cramant, Bergères-les-Vertus and Fossoy; 2016 base vintage; ~30% reserves; fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks; full malolactic fermentation; aged at least 30 months on lees; 7g/L dosage; 80,000 bottles, the biggest production of the house). L'Esprit du Temps means 'the spirit of time,' reflecting a stronger emphasis on reserves here. Jean-Emmanuel Bonnaire's aspiration in his most important cuvée is to make something approachable, interesting and engaging. It achieves its mandate in a spicy style that well unites fruit integrity and depth with the biscuity allure of lees age. Meunier from the estate's nine hectares in the Vallée de la Marne is well deployed to heighten its spicy mood and flesh out the palate, while letting chalk mineral freshness command the finish. It holds good persistence and chalk mineral definition. (Edition VII; 2024)"