Ghosts of the Vineyard: Forgotten Grapes Making a Comeback

Hidden among today’s superstar grapes are ancient vines that once ruled the vineyards before fading into obscurity. These grapes, that might otherwise become a mere footnote in wine history, are rejuvenated by winemakers looking for a cultural artifact. Heritage wine is about bottles that are born of old, or otherwise lost, grape varieties that indicatively tell the rich, often forgotten, story of winemaking. 

At Woodland Hills Wine Company, we believe heritage wines bridge generations. It brings lost varieties back to life and preserves stories that modern vines can’t always tell. In this blog, we will explore why the dead are rising back to the living this Halloween. 

What Is Heritage Wine?

Heritage wine is crafted from old, indigenous, or historically significant grape varieties that existed long before modern classics like Cabernet Sauvignon. These are grapes with deep roots, literally and culturally. They are often tied to specific regions and traditions that shaped the story of wine itself.

In recent years, winemakers around the world have begun reviving these forgotten varietals. Their goal isn’t just nostalgia, but to preserve biodiversity in vineyards and reconnect with authentic winemaking heritage. Each bottle of heritage wine acts as a sensory time capsule, offering a taste of history and a glimpse into the craftsmanship of generations past.

Why Forgotten Grapes Are Making a Comeback

A number of factors are contributing to the resurgence of these old varietals. A lot of older grapes simply perform better under changing climates compared to newer varieties. They have been around for decades or even centuries, adapted to cope with weather variations, drought, and difficulty in cultivating. There is also a true winemaker's curiosity. 

Vineyards are looking for authentic wines that go beyond popular varieties, seeking a degree of uniqueness. And of course, consumers are responding to this demand with enthusiasm by asking for unique small-batch wines. Areas such as Italy, Georgia, and Spain are leading the way in this revival movement because the old can become new again.

Meet the Comeback Grapes

These four varieties showcase the finest quality of what heritage wine is all about. Each of these grapes has endured, outlived trends, and made a comeback. Let's tell the stories of these wonderful survivors and why they are worth searching out.

Ribolla Gialla: Italy's Golden Heritage

Ribolla Gialla is a white grape that originates from Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy and has a history dating back as far as the 13th century. It is an ancient heritage wine grape that produces crisp mineral-driven white wines with notes of citrus, almond, and flowers. 

What makes Ribolla Gialla especially interesting is its modern rejuvenation by natural winemakers and producers of amber, or orange wines. The grape's thick skin helps when you want to macerate the grape for extended skin contact, leading to fashionable amber-colored wines with additional layered textures.

Saperavi Grape: Georgia's Ancient Treasure

From the Republic of Georgia comes the saperavi grape, one of the oldest winemaking cultures on Earth. This isn't just an ordinary red grape; Saperavi is a teinturier type, which means Saperavi has red pulp and red skin. Therefore, it naturally produces deeply colored juice. 

The flavor profile has dark fruit, spice, and earthy tannins that create a bold red wine known for its extraordinary aging potential. Traditional winemaking in Georgia utilizes burial clay vessels, called qvevri, for fermentation and aging, which adds developed complexity that cannot be obtained through the use of modern stainless steel.

Carignan Grape: The Mediterranean Survivor

The carignan grape has a fascinating redemption story. Originating from Spain's Cariñena region and widely planted in France's Languedoc, this variety was once dismissed as a bulk wine grape. But old vines tell a different story. When yields are controlled and the carignan grape comes from century-old bush vines, it produces wines of remarkable character. 

We're talking vibrant acidity, flavors of red currant, herbs, and spice that make this heritage wine a natural pairing with grilled meats and Mediterranean cuisine.

Alicante Bouschet: The Forgotten French Powerhouse

Created in France as a cross between Grenache and Petit Bouschet, Alicante Bouschet is another teinturier grape with deeply pigmented juice. While it originated in France, this variety found its calling in Portugal's Alentejo region and Spain. The flavor profile delivers dark berry fruit, cocoa, and pepper notes wrapped in a full-bodied structure. What's remarkable about Alicante Bouschet is its revival in California's old vineyards, where some vines planted in the late 1800s still produce exceptional fruit.

Why These Grapes Matter

The resurgence of lost grapes indicates more than just an arch in wine preferences. It speaks to biodiversity and safeguarding old DNA lines in viticulture that may become crucial as growing conditions change. 

Heritage wine varieties often demand less in the way of chemical inputs than more modern clones and are therefore more sustainable. But beyond that, it speaks to the degree of storytelling. Each bottle tells a story of winemaking and provides a physical connection for collectors and enthusiasts to the history of wine.

How to Explore Heritage Wines at Home

Ready to dive in? Start with diverse regions like Italy, Georgia, Spain, and California. Try comparing heritage varieties with modern favorites. Taste Ribolla Gialla alongside Chardonnay to appreciate its crisp minerality, or try Saperavi grape wines next to Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Seek out smaller producers and natural winemakers who tend to work most closely with these varieties. When it comes to storage, most heritage reds benefit from slight cellaring and will evolve beautifully over five to ten years.

Raising a Glass to the Past

Forgotten grapes like Ribolla Gialla, Saperavi grape, carignan grape, and Alicante Bouschet are redefining modern wine culture. They remind us that innovation sometimes means looking backward, rediscovering what our ancestors knew all along. At Woodland Hills Wine Company, we celebrate history through wine. Ready to explore? 

Browse WHWC's heritage wine collection and rediscover the grapes that time almost forgot. The ghosts of the vineyard are calling.