Billecart-Salmon Extra Brut Champagne 2009 1.5L

96 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(tasted in 2021 in Australia; 40% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay, 27% meunier from the Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne; 73% grand and premier crus; vinified in stainless steel tanks; aged 9 years on lees; 2g/L dosage; DIAM.) Ever the adaptable innovator, Billecart has taken its Vintage on a significant if surprising deviation into meunier territory in 2009; hitherto pinot-led, with support only from chardonnay. A not insignificant 27% meunier in the warm and generous 2009 season is a bold and courageous play indeed. The philosophy is to play tense, young vine meunier from Leuvrigny on the cool southern (north-facing) slopes of the Vallée de la Marne to balance the season. The result is of course the most powerful, characterful and immediate Billecart Vintage to date. The rounded mood and generous, spice-laden personality of meunier dictated that no barrel fermentation was called for (there was 5% in 2007 and 20% in 2008). This is a wondrously amiable Billecart to drink while the 2008 mellows in the cellar. Meunier steps forward, rich with dark fruit cake, fruit mince spice, poached black cherries and dark berry compote. A decade in the deep has layered honey, toast and even a suggestion of crème brûlée. With no insubstantial proportion of malic acidity, the tension and tang that characterise Billecart bring energy and brightness crucial to upholding freshness in the presence of such generosity, laying out a finish of grand line and length, brightened by crystalline chalk minerality. A miniscule 2g/L dosage is all it calls for. A very different take on Billecart Vintage, to be sure, yet nonetheless every bit worthy, and more than a little thrilling. (Edition VII; 2024)"

96 points James Halliday (Wine Companion): "Comprises 40/33/27% pinot noir/chardonnay/pinot meunier, 73% grands and premiers crus. The low dosage of 2g/l and the warm vintage allow the fruit-based flavours free rein - white peach, Granny Smith apple and nectarine. The finish and aftertaste remain fresh and long. A house in grand form. Special. Closure: Cork. (11/10/20)"

95 points Wine Enthusiast: "Now perfectly mature, this Champagne still offers minerality as well as touches of freshness. It is structured from the Pinot Noir in the blend, crisp while also toasty. Drink now. Alcohol 12%. (Dec 2021)"

94 points William Kelley (Wine Advocate): "Disgorged with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's 2009 Extra Brut Vintage is more giving and demonstrative than its 2008 counterpart, offering up inviting aromas of crisp stone fruit, yellow apple, brioche, honeycomb and warm pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a pillowy mousse and a generous core of fruit girdled by bright acids, it's seamless and complete. Indeed, such is its charm and persistence that I tend to prefer it, at least for now, to the 2008. Drink: 2021-2045. (Sep 2021)"

94 points Wine & Spirits: "A majority of red grapes (40 percent pinot noir and 27 percent meunier) from a majority of grands crus (73 percent) make up this pan-regional blend. Vinified in stainless steel, it has maintained freshness over the course of long aging on the lees, presenting brisk, cool flavors of lime zest, star fruit and pear. That fruit complexity lasts, while the textural pleasure brings you back for another sip. (Dec 2021)"

93 points Antonio Galloni (Vinous): "The 2009 Vintage is another stellar wine in this range from Billecart-Salmon. This is the first time the Vintage includes Meunier in the blend. That approach has worked out so well here. Resonant and generous, the 2009 is so expressive today. The low dosage of two grams per liter is expertly judged. The 2009 is rich, but not heavy, while offering all of the natural generosity of the year. Drink: 2022-2034. (Nov 2021)"

93 points James Suckling: "This is a big, rich wine with lots of strawberry and red-apple character. It’s full and layered with very pretty fruit. Caressing and fresh at the same time. A bit ponderous. 40% pinot noir, 27% pinot meunier and the rest chardonnay. First time with pinot meunier in the blend, helping to maintain balance in the hot 2009 vintage. Drink or hold. (12/15/20)"