Billaud/Samuel Chablis 1er cru Montée de Tonnerre 2022

92-96 points/'5 Star Wine,' Jasper Morris, MW (Inside Burgundy): "From vines planted in 1971 and 1976. The same pale clear colour. The nose is chiselled and backward. With a minute or two in the glass, the opulence starts to show. There is an awful lot of wine in this glass but it remains really tightly wound. Magical structure, and exceptional length. This is going to make a great Montée de Tonnerre with lasting abilities. Fresh white pears, nothing too rich nor sunny. The finish just will not stop! Yet the wine is both refreshing and complex at the same time. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023."

93-95 points Neal Martin (Vinous): "The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from two parcels (one in Haut Chapelot near Raveneau and the other in Montée de Tonnerre lieu-dit). The strict nose has crushed stone scents, hints of damp moss and sea cave. Very fine delineation. The palate has a penetrating entry with another killer line of acidity. It is tensile and steely with serious weight towards the grippy finish. Very sustained, this is a brilliant Montée de Tonnerre. Drink: 2025-2042. (Sep 2023)"

94 points Christy Canterbury, MW (TimAtkin.com): "This is a feisty Montée de Tonnerre with a whirlwind of flavor on the palate. Apple peel, citrus pith and pie crust create a dynamo of youthful exuberance. There's a hint of leesiness on the extensive finish along with a wee note of balancing tannin. Engaging, complex and dense, this will unpack a lot of excitement in the years to come. (2024)"

91-94 points/'Sweet Spot,' Allen Meadows (Burghound): "(from a .45 ha holding in both Montée de Tonnerre proper and Chapelot). An elegant, pure and beautifully airy nose presents ripe but wonderfully fresh aromas of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and oyster shell. The racy and borderline painfully intense middleweight flavors also exude a bracing minerality that adds a sense of lift to the detailed, focused and lingering finale. Other than a trace of backend warmth, this is a classic MdT. Drink: 2030+. (Aug 2023)"

93 points Andy Howard, MW (Decanter): "Cool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre. Drinkin Window: 2025-2031. (10/18/23)"