Billaud/Samuel Chablis 1er cru Mont de Milieu 2023

94 points Christy Canterbury, MW (TimAtkin.com): "Wild flowers, Meyer lemon and pastry crust create a lively palate. Peppy acidity gives the mid-weight palate serious verve. Long and minerally, while this drinks well already, it would be a shame not to wait at least five years. This is composed of three parcels: at the bottom—85 years old, in the middle—35 years old, and at the top—70 years old. Eighty percent goes into stainless steel while 20% sees 450 L barrels. (2025)"

94 points Charles Curtis, MW (Decanter): "This delightful yellow-green wine boasts a complex aroma with hints of nectarine, kiwi and a salty mineral edge. Billaud explains that the high proportion of active calcium in the soil delivers a rich level of extract, but the texture is lively with crisp acidity. The grapes are from three parcels totalling 0.60ha; the oldest are 85 years old. Billaud uses the same techniques here as for his grands crus: 80% tank, 20% 500L barrels; 18 months' total maturation. This is a profound wine that will last at least 20 years. Drinking Window: 2030-2060. (10/12/24)"

92-93 points Kristaps Karklins (Wine Advocate): "The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is sourced from three south-facing plots of 35- to 70-year-old vines. It’s aged 80% in tank, with the remainder in three-year-old 500-liter barrels, spending the last six months in tank, amounting to a total of 18 months on the lees. Informed by low yields, it soars from the glass with a complex bouquet of grapefruit zest, beeswax and oyster shell, mingling with white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, taut and precise, it shows considerable depth, a chalky core and a long, mouthwatering finish. This wine can be a little austere in its early days, but it is turning out very well. (3/6/25)"

91-93 points Neal Martin (Vinous): "From three different sectors within the appellation and cropped at around 45hl/ha, the 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru sees 20% aging in 500-liter barrels for 12 months and then 6 months in stainless steel. Struck flint on the nose, a little smoky, very intense and delineated, this is very captivating. The palate is taut and saline, very harmonious and one of the most nuanced of Billaud's Premier Crus. Hints of praline emerge right on the finish. Excellent. Drink: 2026-2036. (Aug 2024)"

91-93 points/'Sweet spot/Outstanding,' Allen Meadows (Burghound): "(from a .58 ha holding that encompasses the three levels of the vineyard). This is aromatically at once markedly ripe yet super-fresh with its array of white peach, pear and lemon-lime confit that also reflects just enough Chablis character to remind you where this is from. There is once again fine mid-palate density to the solidly powerful mineral-driven flavors that display fine length on the balanced finale that is not especially dry or austere. This harmonious and already nicely complex effort should easily repay up to a decade of keeping. Drink: 2029+. (Oct 2024)"