Rodez/Eric Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Dosage Zéro NV

94 points Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide): "(2010 base vintage; 30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir; 100% Ambonnay from 10 vineyards; average vine age 37 years; 100% vinified in small oak barrels; 60–70% reserves of six vintages; 10–20% malolactic fermentation; zero dosage). Rodez admits that it’s very difficult to create a good equilibrium in zero-dosage champagne every year, yet he consistently manages to craft one of Champagne’s richer zero-dosage offerings, and one of its most delicately balanced. While others tend to create bone-dry champagne from taut, young fruit vinified in stainless steel and softened with malolactic, Rodez turns the entire concept on its head and ingeniously blends a tremendous depth of old wines vinified and aged in barrel from his wonderfully opulent Ambonnay fruit, kissing it with just the lightest touch of malolactic. Already a magnificent eight years of age on release, the purity he achieves is game-changing, utilising the lively energy and vibrant lemon fruit and citrus zest freshness of Ambonnay, tactically deploying the honey, brioche and almond-nougat complexity of barrel vinification and a deep stock of reserves to create internal harmony without any need for dosage. It’s a captivating fanfare of yellow and red fruit succulence, culminating in a very long finish, drawn out by the inimitable salty mineral signature of Ambonnay. For the record, you’d never guess it had no dosage. And I don’t think I’ve ever said that before. (2020-2021)"