92 points Wine Spectator: "[$40 list] An intriguing version, cloudy, with obvious skin contact shown through the soft tannins that add to the corduroy texture. The flavor profile is impressive and expressive, featuring notes of green tea, tobacco, lemon peel and sea salt. More on a savory side, but would be great with food. Best from 2022 through 2032. 35 cases imported. (2020)"
For the Freigeist (free spirit) Gruner Veltliner, winemaker Georg Hogl lightly squeezed the grapes to open them up and start spontaneous fermentation on the skins. After 35 days a light press followed and the wine went into 500 Liter Manhartsberger oak to age on its lees for another ten months. The wine was finally bottled with a minuscule addition of sulfur but without filtration. Dense and powerful, the Freigeist builds a bridge between classic Wachau Gruner Veltliner and skin-fermented orange wine that could not be more interesting. A hint of oak mingles nicely with skin phenolics, yellow fruit and nicely balanced acidity.